What Is Waffle Knit? A Guide for Decorators
What waffle knit fabric is, how it relates to thermal, how it compares with jersey and French terry, and how to print and embroider waffle and thermal shirts.
Waffle knit for decorators: how the grid is made, printing and embroidery on thermal shirts, and care.
What is waffle knit fabric? Waffle knit is a knit fabric with a raised grid of small squares, often sold as thermal, that traps air and feels textured; the grid breaks up fine prints, so embroidery, patches or bold transfers pressed with firm, even pressure usually decorate it more cleanly.
Key rule: design for the grid. Bold shapes and stitched or patched logos read well; fine lines and halftones fight the texture.
Part of the business and pricing guides in the DAX Learning Hub. Related: What Fabric Can You Embroider On?, What Is Jersey Fabric?, How to Buy Wholesale Blank T Shirts and What Is French Terry?.
Waffle Knit vs Jersey vs French Terry
| Fabric | Texture | Weight and warmth | Decoration fit |
|---|---|---|---|
| Waffle knit (thermal) | Raised grid of small squares on the face | Traps air; warm for its weight | Embroidery, patches, bold transfers with firm pressure; fine prints break up |
| Jersey | Smooth, flat knit face | Light to mid weight | Widest print window; knit style embroidery backing |
| French terry | Smooth face, loops on the back | Mid weight; soft | Smooth face prints well; see the French terry guide |
Waffle knit is the textured option of the three. Jersey and French terry give a flatter face for printing.
What Is Waffle Knit Fabric? How It Is Made
Knitwear and textile references describe waffle knit as a knit structure built from a mix of stitch types, such as knit, purl and tuck or miss loops, arranged in a repeat that raises a grid of small cells. The tuck stitches add loft and depth, and the pattern traps a layer of air, which is why waffle knit feels warm for its weight.
Waffle knit shirts and base layers are often sold as thermal, and knitwear references group the two structures together. Grid depth, weight and fit vary from blank to blank, so compare samples side by side before you commit a program.
Printing on Waffle Knit
Transfer makers note that the grid can show through prints and that recessed areas may not get full contact, so fine detail can break up. Treat that as a reason to test on the actual blank.
- Choose bold, simple art and avoid fine lines, small text and tight halftones.
- For screen printing, test the ink deposit; a heavier deposit helps cover the grid, at the cost of a firmer hand.
- For transfers, use firm, even pressure and a pressing pillow so the platen reaches into the texture, at the maker's settings.
- Peel and wash test a sample before running the order.
Show the customer a sample first.
Embroidering Waffle and Thermal Shirts
Embroidery sits on top of the grid, so it often decorates waffle knit more cleanly than print. Because waffle knit is a knit, use a cut away style backing that supports stretch through wear and washing, and consider a light water soluble topping on deep grids so small lettering does not sink into the cells. Hoop without stretching the knit, and test sew.
Patches are another clean option, since the design is made off the garment and then sewn or applied to the shirt.
Care and Shrink
Waffle knits are often cotton or cotton blends, and the open, lofty structure can change size in washing and drying. There is no single shrink figure. Check the supplier spec sheet and care label, and wash test a decorated sample if fit matters. Pass care instructions to the customer with the order.
Ordering Waffle Knit Blanks
Confirm fiber content, weight, grid size and size range on the supplier spec sheet. Order a sample to test your method before quoting a large run. The wholesale blanks guide has the full checklist, and what fabric can you embroider on compares other fabrics.
Keep a record of method, settings and results for each waffle style. A record saves setup time on reorders.
Quoting a Waffle Knit Program
Start a waffle knit quote by asking what the shirts are for. Loungewear, crew base layers and retail thermals all use the texture, and the use decides whether a print, a stitched logo or a patch makes the most sense.
Request a sample of the exact blank before you price. Look at the grid size, the weight and the stretch, and try a test decoration on a seam allowance or a spare shirt before you quote a large run.
Show the customer a decorated sample next to their art proof.
Write the approved method, art size, settings and backing on the job ticket. A recorded setup makes reorders fast and consistent.
Give the buyer simple care advice. Washing inside out and avoiding high dryer heat helps both the texture and the decoration hold up through the season.
Frequently Asked Questions About Waffle Knit Fabric (FAQ)
What is waffle knit fabric?
A knit fabric with a raised grid of small squares formed by a mix of stitch types, often sold as thermal.
Is waffle knit the same as thermal?
Thermal is a common trade name for waffle knit shirts and base layers.
Can you screen print on waffle knit?
Yes, with bold art and a tested deposit. The grid can show through and fine detail can break up.
Can you embroider a thermal shirt?
Yes. Use a cut away style backing for the knit, consider a light topping on deep grids, and test sew.
Does waffle knit shrink?
It can, depending on fiber and finishing. Check the spec sheet and care label, and wash test.
Supplier note: figures and settings here are hedged starting points that vary by blank, film, stone, leather, ink and certificate; confirm every claim against the supplier or manufacturer spec sheet, the garment care label and current certificates. Grid size, weight, fiber and shrink vary by blank; follow the supplier spec sheet.
Browse more guides in the DAX Learning Hub, and check cities and dates on the DAX show schedule when you are ready to see thermal blanks and embroidery equipment in person.