What is twill fabric? Twill is a woven fabric with diagonal ribs, made by passing the weft over and under two or more warp threads with a step in each row; it is sturdy and stable, so it embroiders cleanly and generally takes transfers well on caps, aprons, workwear and jackets.

Key rule: twill is a weave structure, not a fiber. Check the fiber content for heat and ink choices, and use the weave to plan stabilizer and placement.

Part of the business and pricing guides in the DAX Learning Hub. Related: Embroidery on Aprons, Embroidery on Denim, What Is Jersey Fabric? and What Fabric Can You Embroider On?.

Published by DAX (Decorated Apparel Expo) · Last updated: October 2026

Twill vs Canvas vs Jersey

Twill and canvas are both stable wovens, which is why they share many decorating habits. Jersey is a knit, so it moves more and needs more support. See the jersey guide for knit behavior.

What Is Twill Fabric? How It Is Woven

Weaving references group nearly all woven cloth into three basic structures: plain weave, twill and satin. In plain weave each weft yarn goes over one warp yarn and under the next. In twill, the weft floats over or under two or more yarns, and each row starts one step over from the last. Those staggered floats line up into the diagonal rib called the twill line.

Twills are written as ratios. A 2/1 twill floats over two yarns and under one. A 2/2 twill is balanced, showing about the same amount of warp and weft on the face. A 3/1 twill has longer floats, and textile education sources link it to heavier bottom weight fabrics such as denim, chino and gabardine. The diagonal can rise to the left or the right, and variations such as herringbone change the direction of the line in a pattern.

Twill is a weave, so it can be made from cotton, polyester, blends or other fibers. A cotton twill and a polyester twill look similar but behave differently under heat.

Embroidering on Twill

Embroidery backing makers list twill alongside caps, denim and canvas as stable, low stretch fabrics where a tear away backing is often enough. Cut away backing is still the usual choice for high stitch counts, very dense designs, or twill blends with stretch. Match the backing to the design and garment, and test sew.

1. Confirm the fiber content and any stretch in the twill.
2. Choose a tear away backing for stable twill and moderate designs, or a cut away for dense designs or stretch blends.
3. Hoop firmly without distorting the twill line.
4. Use a needle suited to woven fabric weight; heavier twill may need a larger size per your machine guidance.
5. Run a test sew and check for puckering and registration.

Twill caps, aprons and work shirts are everyday embroidery jobs because the fabric holds stitches flat. See embroidery on aprons for apron setup and embroidery on denim for heavy twill denim.

Printing and Pressing Twill

Heat applied transfers and screen prints follow the fiber content more than the weave. Cotton twill takes cotton settings; polyester twill needs the lower heat settings the transfer or ink maker gives for polyester, plus a check for dye migration on dyed colors. The twill line adds surface texture, so press firmly and evenly at the maker's pressure and test edge adhesion on heavy, textured twills.

Thick seams and pockets on twill workwear create uneven pressure. A pressing pillow or pad under the print area helps the platen meet the fabric evenly. Always follow the transfer maker's chart and run a test press.

Keep a short record of what worked on each twill style you decorate: backing type, needle, hoop or press settings and any problems. Twill garments come back as reorders more often than fashion pieces, so that record saves setup time.

Where Twill Shows Up in Apparel

Decorators meet twill in caps, chino style pants, work shirts, jackets, aprons and many uniform pieces. Denim is a twill too, which is why it embroiders much like other heavy twills. When a customer asks for a sturdy, stable garment for embroidery, twill is often part of the conversation. For other fabrics, see what fabric can you embroider on.

Before quoting, check fabric weight, fiber content and any stretch on the supplier spec sheet, and ask for a sample when the job is large or the twill is unfamiliar.

When you take in customer supplied twill garments, such as uniform pants or shop jackets, ask for the care label or fiber content before you quote. Pockets, rivets and heavy seams limit where a hoop or platen can sit, so check the decoration area on the real garment. A quick test on an inside facing or a spare piece is cheaper than a ruined uniform.

Frequently Asked Questions About Twill Fabric (FAQ)

What is twill fabric made of?

Twill is a weave, not a fiber. It can be cotton, polyester, blends or other fibers. Check the label or spec sheet.

Twill vs canvas: what is the difference?

Twill has a diagonal line from stepped floats. Canvas uses a plain over one, under one style weave with a flat, even surface. Both are stable wovens.

Is twill good for embroidery?

Twill is a stable, low stretch woven, so it holds stitches well, and backing makers often list it for tear away backing. Dense designs or stretch blends may still need cut away.

Can you heat press on twill?

Yes, at the transfer maker's settings for the fiber content. Use firm, even pressure and a pillow under seams, then test.

Does twill shrink?

It can, depending on fiber and finishing. There is no single figure. Check the supplier spec sheet and care label, and wash test if fit matters.

Supplier note: figures and settings here are hedged starting points that vary by blank, film, stone, leather, ink and certificate; confirm every claim against the supplier or manufacturer spec sheet, the garment care label and current certificates. Weight, fiber and shrink vary by twill; follow the supplier spec sheet.

Browse more guides in the DAX Learning Hub, and check cities and dates on the DAX show schedule when you are ready to see fabrics, blanks and embroidery equipment in person.